In a fast‑paced world, the countryside represents
the new
LUXURY:
authenticity
Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo, Managing Director of the winery and olive mill Marqués de Valdueza, opens the doors of the Perales estate, where the future returns to its roots.
En un mundo acelerado el campo representa
The new LUXURY: authenticity
Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo, Managing Director of the winery and olive mill Marqués de Valdueza, opens the doors of the Perales estate, where the future returns to its roots.
By: Noelia Jiménez
As morning stretches awake in the offices of central Madrid, the olive trees of Perales — in the heart of a land both extreme and unyielding, have already spent hours gently swaying their branches in a graceful farewell, without nostalgia, to a fruit destined to fill palates with a taste of liquid gold.
We are just moments from Mérida, where stones speak the language of a civilisation that once conceived and expanded greatness. And here, underfoot, the earth echoes with the pulse of nine centuries of Spanish history: the root from which today extend the branches of the Álvarez de Toledo family tree, custodians since 1624 of the title of Marqués de Valdueza, granted by Philip IV to Don Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo y Osorio for, among other achievements, the recovery of Salvador de Bahía for the Spanish Crown after it had briefly fallen to the Dutch.
Today, 400 years on, another man bearing the same name defends with equal honour and conviction the respect for the land and the legacy of authenticity. A story to be savoured through the wines, oils, vinegars and honeys of Marqués de Valdueza. “A wine or an olive oil is not just what’s inside the bottle: quality is essential, of course, but the design must also be compelling, so that on the shelf it conveys its essence. And the story that gives it meaning must envelop the whole,” says Fadrique.
In the case of Marqués de Valdueza, the story is you five centuries of Spain bottled. Indeed, we are talking about a brand rooted in reality, because there is a real person, the Marqués de Valdueza, who gives his name to this entire project. Everything we do carries the essence of our family, as reflected on our label: it features the Álvarez de Toledo coat of arms and the Valdueza iron brand, with its simplified crown. Heraldic symbols also appear, the angel, the chequered pattern, and, of course, our motto: “Tu in ea et ego pro ea”, which means “You in it and I for it”, historically interpreted as a firm commitment by our family to the homeland or to faith, depending on the era and its context.
And where does “Merula” come from? Merula is the Latin name for the blackbird, a bird that is very characteristic of olive groves. When we created this second olive oil brand, for a gentler-tasting line, we also wanted to tell the story of the countryside and convey that beauty and elegance we are fortunate to witness there.
You debuted on the market with Marqués de Valdueza in 2003. How has the brand evolved over the past twenty‑plus years? Marqués de Valdueza is now present in 28 countries and exports approximately 65% of our production, with a well-diversified portfolio, which I believe is essential to ensuring the brand’s long-term sustainability. The United States and Canada are perhaps our main importing countries, although the UK, Germany and, more recently, Singapore are also important markets for us. Without question, however, our most significant market remains Spain, which accounts for 35% of our sales.
Of all your products, which would you call the crown jewel? I would say the olive oil, which represents our largest sales volume, followed by wine. After that come our two vinegars, both made from red wine using our own wines as the base. One is a Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vinegar, aged for three years in French oak barrels. The other, more recent addition is a balsamic-style sweet-and-sour vinegar, made with 40% cooked grape must, handcrafted artisanally and aged for twelve years, also in French oak barrels.
“Respect for the land is embedded in the DNA of Marqués de Valdueza. Our model is rooted in regenerative agriculture and in the protection of the ecosystem that surrounds us.”
Do artisanal processes still play a major role in your production systems?
A great deal has evolved, fortunately, but we rely on the know‑how of three generations of estate managers who know our land intimately and have fully embraced our values. Today, our olive groves are overseen by the son of the previous manager, who himself inherited the vocation from his father.
I always say that tradition teaches us the why, and innovation teaches us the how. When that dialogue is preserved, everything flows naturally. At Marqués de Valdueza, we ensure that every advancement, whether in technology, sustainability or quality, respects the essence that defines us. Only then can a legacy remain both alive and meaningful.
Processes have become more mechanised, allowing us to advance in both efficiency and excellence.
Perhaps the most “artisanal” aspect is harvesting the olives at the precise moment. neither too early nor too
And how do you determine that moment? It is very difficult, but for us it is of critical importance. As harvest time approaches, we begin taking samples and assessing them based on a series of parameters that measure the fat formation index inside the olive. When that index begins to approach our quality benchmark, we harvest a small quantity, produce a little oil in a mini mill, and taste it to ensure it is the right moment to begin the harvest.
In a way, you are olive alchemists… We work with four olive varieties, Arbequina, Picual, Hojiblanca and Morisca. From them we create what could be described as a coupage, or blend, adjusting the proportions each year so that the oil expresses the personality we want to convey.
How important is respect for the land and biodiversity in the way Marqués de Valdueza operates? Respect for the land is embedded in the DNA of Marqués de Valdueza. Our model is rooted in regenerative agriculture and in protecting the ecosystem that surrounds us. We understand that only through sustainability, caring for the soil, water and biodiversity, can we guarantee products of the very highest quality while also contributing to a more responsible future.
We are relentlessly pursuing “sustainability” while at the same time dismissing “the old ways”, which are often the most sustainable of all. How do you experience this paradox?
In truth, many practices now described as sustainable are those our ancestors applied naturally: respect for cycles, careful use of resources, an absence of waste. True modernity lies in recovering that wisdom and combining it with today’s innovation and technology. At Marqués de Valdueza, we believe the future is about doing well what has always been done well. The traditional is not the opposite of the modern; it is its root. If we can reconcile innovation with centuries of experience, we will find a genuine balance between progress and respect for the environment.
You are among the few “romantics” who continue to herd cattle on horseback from Extremadura to Ávila. Why preserve transhumance when everything seems to work against it and it is clearly not profitable? When tuberculosis regulations allow us… it is a way of paying tribute to centuries of wisdom and respect for nature. It’s true that it isn’t the most profitable or the easiest path, but it represents a way of understanding life and the countryside: synchronising the rhythm of people with that of animals and the land. Along that journey on horseback between Extremadura and Ávila there is history, culture and ecological balance. Being able to preserve it is a privilege.
How do you navigate the shift from the financial world, where everything is numbers, to the countryside, where the business depends on the climate in other words, on the sky? It’s true that in the countryside there are key factors entirely beyond your control, but it also offers something deeply satisfying: you create a tangible, absolutely real product. In the financial world, by contrast, you work with figures and often never see the “product” you are creating.
The agricultural sector is not easy, but for me it is enormously rewarding to be with an importer in any of the countries we travel to, attend an event, and see someone taste your oil and watch a look of pleasure spread across their face.
I remember, very early on, a trade fair organised by one of our importers in Russia. It was held at night in a nightclub, and there, alongside the champagne and seafood, stood my bottle of olive oil. There weren’t even proper tasting glasses, so they gave me champagne flutes. People were reluctant to try the oil, but I kept insisting, as I always do: “Smell it.” When they brought the glasses to their noses, I saw the surprise on their faces and knew we had passed the test.
“The legacy of Marqués de Valdueza is a source of inspiration. It means being part of a story that goes far beyond a brand: a family bond with the land, with excellence and with authenticity.”
What does Marqués de Valdueza olive oil smell like? Banana, freshly cut grass… fruit, above all, because what we are really talking about is a juice. Olive oil is not simply a fat; it is olive juice, something that enhances and enriches every ingredient it comes into contact with.
What differences do you see between the international positioning of your wine and your olive oil as part of Spain’s country brand? High-quality Spanish extra virgin olive oil no longer has anything to envy Italian oil in terms of quality. Spain has made remarkable progress, although there is still work to be done when it comes to educating and training consumers.
Has “Spain” become a global seal of quality? I believe it has. The great challenge now is to preserve quality and authenticity in an increasingly globalised and competitive market. Spain has an extraordinary wine and olive oil heritage, but too often it has not been communicated with the strength it deserves. That is precisely where the opportunity lies: in telling our story better, in highlighting origin, sustainability and artisanal craftsmanship. We have exceptional products — all that’s missing is for the world to know them and recognise them as such.
There is huge potential in Spain’s country brand. Many years ago, at a trade fair in Tokyo, I was struck by an exceptionally long queue of Japanese visitors. I followed it all the way to the end and found myself in front of a ham carver. Dozens of people were patiently waiting for quite some time to watch the carving and to taste that delicacy. And they appreciated it as such. That’s why I believe we still have a long road ahead — and many opportunities to do things well.
Olive oil consumption accounts for less than 3% of total vegetable fat consumption worldwide. This means there are millions of people who have never even heard of our olive oil. If we were able to design an educational strategy and increase extra virgin olive oil consumption even slightly, we would be talking about sales figures far higher than today’s.
And in your view, what key points should that education around olive oil culture focus on? We have many strengths to draw on: the culinary dimension, in terms of the oil’s organoleptic properties; its health benefits, extra virgin olive oil combats bad cholesterol and reduces the toxins generated when molecular breakdown occurs at high temperatures, and, of course, the dimension linked to a deep-rooted agricultural tradition that, in Spain, is a true cultural pillar.
Could we speak of the countryside as a unifying element of our cultural identity? Absolutely. Cities increasingly resemble one another in terms of how people live; authenticity is found in villages and in the countryside. Large cities shape their inhabitants, while rural life preserves a singular character.
We often associate luxury with cosmopolitan attributes. If we were to locate it in the countryside, where would we find those small yet profound details that define life’s true luxuries? Today, luxury is measured in authenticity and in a connection to origin. In a fast‑paced world, the countryside represents a new kind of luxury: that of what is real.
In a world that keeps accelerating, how do you preserve the patience required to make a great wine or a great olive oil? We live obsessed with immediacy, yet truly exceptional products are those made without haste. Wine and olive oil remind us that excellence takes time, that nature has its own rhythms, and that respecting them is the only way to create something authentic. Patience, ultimately, is a form of elegance.
The Spanish lifestyle — and especially Madrid’s — is increasingly admired by international investors. What role do wine and olive oil play in this Spanish way of life? Wine and olive oil are two essential pillars of the Spanish lifestyle. They represent our way of understanding the table, time and togetherness. In Spain, eating and drinking well is not a luxury; it is a way of sharing, of enjoying and of celebrating life. Olive oil and wine are part of this culture of balance and quality that so captivates those who visit us, and which forms an inseparable part of our identity.
More and more people are seeking experiences that reconnect them with the land — oils with a story, wines with identity, places where time moves at a different pace. It is a form of sustainable, conscious luxury that celebrates Mediterranean culture and the art of living well, with roots and with purpose.
Marqués de Valdueza is synonymous with history and tradition. What does it mean to you to be the heir to a brand with such centuries‑old family legacy? The legacy of Marqués de Valdueza is a source of inspiration. It means being part of a story that goes far beyond a brand: a family bond with the land, with excellence and with authenticity. It is a source of pride, but also a responsibility, a commitment to continue doing things with the same rigour and passion as my ancestors. Over the centuries, the family has known how to adapt to changing times without losing its identity, rooted in integrity, service and respect for tradition. That consistency of values is undoubtedly what has allowed us to endure.
Among all the great figures in your family tree, which one inspires you most? Without question, the first Marqués de Villanueva de Valdueza, Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo y Osorio. He was one of the most important military leaders and naval commanders of his time, although he later fell into disgrace because of the Count‑Duke of Olivares. After his death, his wife, Elvira Ponce de León, was able to restore all his assets and honours.
Beyond aristocracy, where does the value of nobility — of being noble — sit in our society today? Nobility remains a profoundly relevant value. In a time that rewards immediacy and appearances, being noble means acting with coherence, caring for details and thinking of others.
Brands, companies and individuals who aspire to endure share that same quality: doing things ethically, with respect and with vision. True nobility today lies in building with values what time cannot erase.
With whom or at what moment would you open the finest bottle in your wine collection? The finest bottle is never opened by chance; it is saved for a moment worth remembering. Perhaps the place matters less than the company. I would share it with people who appreciate the value of time, the effort and the history behind that wine. Because a great wine does not celebrate a moment — it transcends it.